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The latest, possibly most fashionable place to jump-start your day is the new $25-million Sports CLub L.A. in Beverly Hills, followed by breakfast or lunch at the adjacent Oliver Café & Lounge. Owned by Mario Oliver of Linq, this sleek white and chrome restaurant, squeezed into a former bank vault, has something for everyone. Those looking to shed a few pounds can head to the spa menu, where many dishes have fewer than 400 calories. But you can also find panini and wraps, an old-fashioned quiche Lorraine, a New York pepper steak, miso cold-poached Norwegian salmon-and low-carb bagels. And hey, there's the Low-Carb Power-C Martini made with wheat grass or, for reprobates, the real thing straight up with a twist. The isn't another place in Beverly Hills where you can will find this kind of extensive low-fat, low-carb menu, available from 6:00am until late evening. And without closing off the area, a separate dining counter runs through the glass wall of the restaurant into the fitne